|
Energy Savings Guide
Exclusive to Homeowners in Ohio
Right in
your own home, you have the power to
reduce energy demand, and when you
reduce demand, you cut the amount of
resources, like coal and gas, needed
to make energy—that means you create
less greenhouse gas emissions, which
keeps air cleaner for all of us… and
saves on your utility bills! Plus,
reducing energy use increases our
energy security.
Contents
Save Energy and Money Today
Did you
know that the typical U.S. family
spends about $1,900 a year on home
utility bills? Unfortunately, a
large portion of that energy is
wasted. And each year, electricity
generated by fossil fuels for a
single home puts more carbon dioxide
into the air than two average cars.
And as for the road, transportation
accounts for 67% of all U.S. oil
consumption. The good news is that
there is a lot you can do to save
energy and money at home and in your
car. Start making small changes
today. To cut your energy use up to
25%, see the Long-Term Savings
Tips.
The key
to achieving these savings in your
home is a whole-house energy
efficiency plan. To take a
whole-house approach, view your home
as an energy system with
interdependent parts. For example,
your heating system is not just a
furnace—it’s a heat-delivery system
that starts at the furnace and
delivers heat throughout your home
using a network of ducts. Even a
top-of-the-line, energy-efficient
furnace will waste a lot of fuel if
the ducts, walls, attic, windows,
and doors are not properly sealed
and insulated. Taking a whole-house
approach to saving energy ensures
that dollars you invest to save
energy are spent wisely.
Energy-efficient improvements not
only make your home more
comfortable, they can yield
long-term financial rewards. Reduced
utility bills more than make up for
the higher price of energy-efficient
appliances and improvements over
their lifetimes. In addition, your
home could bring in a higher price
when you sell.
Tips to Save Energy Today
Easy low-cost and no-cost ways to
save energy.
-
Install a programmable
thermostat to keep your house
comfortably warm in the winter
and comfortably cool in the
summer.
-
Use
compact fluorescent light bulbs
with the ® label.
-
Air
dry dishes instead of using your
dishwasher’s drying cycle.
-
Turn
off your computer and monitor
when not in use.
-
Plug
home electronics, such as TVs
and DVD players, into power
strips; turn the power strips
off when the equipment is not in
use (TVs and DVDs in standby
mode still use several watts of
power).
-
Lower the thermostat on your hot
water heater to 120°F.
-
Take
short showers instead of baths.
-
Wash
only full loads of dishes and
clothes.
-
Drive sensibly. Aggressive
driving (speeding, rapid
acceleration and braking) wastes
gasoline.
-
Look
for the label on
home appliances and products.
products meet strict
efficiency guidelines set by the
U.S. Department of Energy and
the Environmental Protection
Agency.
-
Visit
www.energysavers.gov
for more energy-saving ideas.
Your Home’s Energy Use
The first step to taking a
whole-house energy efficiency
approach is to find out which parts
of your house use the most energy. A
home Energy Evaluation will pinpoint
those areas and suggest the most
effective measures for cutting your
energy costs. You can conduct a
simple home Energy Evaluation yourself,
contact your local utility, or call
an independent Energy Evaluationor for a
more comprehensive examination. For
more information about home Energy Evaluations, including free tools and
calculators, visit
www.energysavers.gov
or
www.natresnet.org.
Energy Evaluationing Tips
-
Check the insulation levels in
your attic, exterior and
basement walls, ceilings,
floors, and crawl spaces. Visit
www.energysavers.gov
for instructions on checking
your insulation levels.
-
Check for holes or cracks
around your walls, ceilings,
windows, doors, light and
plumbing fixtures, switches, and
electrical outlets that can leak
air into or out of your home.
-
Check for open fireplace
dampers.
-
Make sure your appliances and
heating and cooling systems are
properly maintained. Check your
owner’s manuals for the
recommended maintenance.
-
Study your family’s lighting
needs and use patterns, paying
special attention to high-use
areas such as the living room,
kitchen, and outside lighting.
Look for ways to use lighting
controls—like occupancy sensors,
dimmers, or timers—to reduce
lighting energy use, and replace
standard (incandescent) light
bulbs and fixtures with compact
or standard fluorescent lamps.
Contact
us for Home Energy Savings
We install
Owens Corning AttiCat
Insulation
Formulating Your Plan After you have identified where
your home is losing energy,
assign priorities by asking
yourself a few important
questions:
-
How much money do you spend on
energy?
-
Where are your greatest energy
losses?
-
How long will it take for an
investment in energy efficiency
to pay for itself in energy cost
savings?
-
Do the energy-saving measures
provide additional benefits that
are important to you (for
example, increased comfort from
installing double-paned,
efficient windows)?
-
How long do you plan to own
your current home?
-
Can you do the job yourself or
will you need to hire a
contractor
-
What is your budget and how
much time do you have to spend
on maintenance and repair?
How We Use Energy in Our Homes
Heating accounts for the biggest
chunk of a typical utility bill.
|
Computers & Electronics
|
9% |
|
Space Heating |
9% |
|
Space Cooling |
12% |
|
Water Heating |
12% |
|
Lighting |
1% |
|
Appliances |
9% |
|
Refrigeration |
8% |
|
Other |
8% |
Source: 2007 Buildings Energy
Data Book,
Table 4.2.1., 2005
energy cost data.
Once you assign priorities to
your energy needs, you can form
a whole house efficiency plan.
Your plan will provide you with
a strategy for making smart
purchases and home improvements
that maximize energy efficiency
and save the most money.
Another option is to get the
advice of a professional. Many
utilities conduct Energy Evaluations
for free or for a small charge.
For a fee, a professional
contractor will analyze how well
your home’s energy systems work
together and compare the
analysis to your utility bills.
He or she will use a variety of
equipment such as blower doors,
infrared cameras, and surface
thermometers to find leaks and
drafts. After gathering
information about your home, the
contractor or auditor will give
you a list of recommendations
for cost-effective energy
improvements and enhanced
comfort and safety. A reputable
contractor can also calculate
the return on your investment in
high-efficiency equipment
compared with standard
equipment.
Tips for Finding a Contractor
-
Ask neighbors and friends for
recommendations
-
Look in the Yellow Pages
-
Focus on local companies
-
Look for licensed, insured
contractors
-
Get three bids with details in
writing
-
Ask about previous experience
-
Check references
-
Check with the Better Business
Bureaus
Insulation and Sealing Air Leaks
Checking your home’s insulation
is one of the fastest and most
cost- effective ways to use a
whole-house approach to reduce
energy waste and make the most
of your energy dollars. A good
insulating system includes a
combination of products and
construction techniques that
protect a home from outside hot
or cold temperatures, protect it
against air leaks, and control
moisture. You can increase the
comfort of your home while
reducing your heating and
cooling needs by investing in
proper insulation and sealing
air leaks.
Insulation
First, check the insulation in
your attic, ceilings, exterior
and basement walls, floors, and
crawl spaces to see if it meets
the levels recommended for your
area. Insulation is measured in
R-values—the higher the R-value,
the better your walls and roof
will resist the transfer of
heat. DOE recommends ranges of
R-values based on local heating
and cooling costs and climate
conditions in different areas of
the nation. State and local code
minimum insulation requirements may
be less than the DOE
recommendations, which are based on
cost effectiveness.
Although insulation can be
made from a variety of
materials, it usually comes in
four types; each type has
different characteristics.
Rolls and batts—or blankets—are
flexible products made from
mineral fibers, such as
fiberglass and rock wool. They
are available in widths suited
to standard spacings of wall
studs and attic or floor joists:
2x4 walls can hold R-13 or R-15
batts; 2x6 walls can have R-19
or R-21 products.
Loose-fill insulation—usually
made of fiberglass, rock wool,
or cellulose in the form of
loose fibers or fiber pellets,
it should be blown into spaces
using special pneumatic
equipment. The blown-in material
conforms readily to building
cavities and attics. Therefore,
loose-fill insulation is well
suited for places where it is
difficult to install other types
of insulation.
Rigid foam insulation—foam
insulation typically is more
expensive than fiber insulation.
But it’s very effective in
buildings with space limitations
and where higher R-values are
needed. Foam insulation R-values
range from R-4 to R-6.5 per inch
of thickness, which is up to 2
times greater than most other
insulating materials of the same
thickness.
Foam-in-place insulation—this
type can be blown into walls and
reduces air leakage, if blown
into cracks, such as around
window and door frames.
Insulation Tips
-
Consider factors such as your
climate, building design, and
budget when selecting insulation
R-values for your home.
-
Use higher density insulation
on exterior walls, such as rigid
foam boards, in cathedral
ceilings and on exterior walls.
-
Ventilation helps with
moisture control and reducing
summer cooling bills. Attic
vents can be installed along the
entire ceiling cavity to help
ensure proper airflow from the
soffit to the attic to make a
home more comfortable and energy
efficient. Do not ventilate your
attic if you have insulation on
the underside of the roof.
-
Recessed light fixtures can be
a major source of heat loss, but
you need to be careful how close
you place insulation next to a
fixture unless it is marked
IC—designed for direct
insulation contact. Check your
local building codes for
recommendations. See Lighting
for more about recessed cans.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
-
One of the most cost-effective
ways to make your home more
comfortable year-round is to add
insulation to your attic. Adding insulation to the attic
is relatively easy and very cost
effective. To find out if you
have enough attic insulation,
measure the thickness of the
insulation. If it is less than
R-30 (11 inches of fiber glass
or rock wool or 8 inches of
cellulose), you could probably
benefit by adding more. Most
U.S. homes should have between
R-30 and R-60 insulation in the
attic. Don’t forget the attic
trap or access door.
If your attic has enough
insulation and your home still
feels drafty and cold in the
winter or too warm in the
summer, chances are you need to
add insulation to the exterior
walls as well. This is a more
expensive measure that usually
requires a contractor, but it
may be worth the cost if you
live in a very hot or cold
climate. If you replace the
exterior siding on your home,
you should consider adding
insulation at the same time.
You may also need to add
insulation to your crawl space
or basement. Check with a
professional contractor.
|
Where to Insulate
Adding insulation in the areas
shown above may be the best way
to improve your home’s energy
efficiency. Insulate either the
attic floor or under the roof.
Check with a contractor about
crawl space or basement
insulation.
-
Crawl space
-
Basement
-
Attic
-
Walls
-
Floors
|
Contact
us for Home Energy Savings
We install
Owens Corning AttiCat
Insulation
Should I Insulate My Home? Insulate your home when:
-
You have an older home and
haven’t added insulation. Only
20% of homes built before 1980
are well insulated.
-
You are uncomfortably cold in
the winter or hot in the summer—
adding insulation creates a more
uniform temperature and
increases comfort.
-
You build a new home,
addition, or install new siding
or roofing.
-
You pay high
energy bills.
-
You are bothered by noise from
outside—insulation muffles
sound.
-
As specified on the product
packaging, follow the product
instructions on installation and
wear the proper protective gear
when installing insulation.
New Construction For new homes in most climates,
you will save money and energy
if you install a combination of
cavity insulation and insulative
sheathing. Cavity insulation can
be installed at levels up to
R-15 in a 2 in. x 4 in. wall and
up to R-21 in a 2 in. x 6 in.
wall. The insulative sheathing,
used in addition to this cavity
insulation, helps to reduce the
energy that would otherwise be
lost through the wood frame.
The
table below shows the
recommended combinations. For
example, in Ohio, you could
use either a 2x4 wall with R-13
or a 2x6 wall with R-21. For
either of those two walls, you
should also use an inch of insulative sheathing that has an
R-value of R-5 or R-6.
Today, new products are on the
market that provide both
insulation and structural
support and should be considered
for new home construction or
additions. Structural insulated
panels, known as SIPs, and
masonry products like insulating
concrete forms are among these.
Some homebuilders are even using
an old technique borrowed from
the pioneers: building walls
using straw bales. Check online
at
www.energysavers.gov for more
information on structural
insulation.
Radiant barriers (in hot
climates), reflective
insulation, and foundation
insulation should all be
considered for new home
construction. Check with your
contractor for more information
about these options.
Ohio
Insulation Recommendations
|
Attic |
Cathedral
Ceiling |
Cavity |
Insulation
Sheathing |
Floor |
|
R38-R60 |
R30-R38 |
R13-R15 |
R2.5-R6 |
R25-R30 |
Sources of Air Leaks in Your
Home
Areas that leak air into and out
of your home cost you lots of
money. Check the areas listed
below.
Sealing Air Leaks
Warm air leaking into your home
during the summer and out of
your home during the winter can
waste a lot of your energy
dollars. One of the quickest
dollar-saving tasks you can do
is caulk, seal, and weatherstrip
all seams, cracks, and openings
to the outside. You can save on
your heating and cooling bill by
reducing the air leaks in your
home.
Tips for Sealing Air Leaks
-
First, test your home for air
tightness. On a windy day,
carefully hold a lit incense
stick or a smoke pen next to
your windows, doors, electrical
boxes, plumbing fixtures,
electrical outlets, ceiling
fixtures, attic hatches, and
other locations where there is a
possible air path to the
outside. If the smoke stream
travels horizontally, you have
located an air leak that may
need caulking, sealing, or
weatherstripping.
-
Caulk and weatherstrip doors
and windows that leak air.
-
Caulk and seal air leaks where
plumbing, ducting, or electrical
wiring penetrates through walls,
floors, ceilings, and soffits
over cabinets.
-
Install foam gaskets behind
outlet and switch plates on
walls.
-
Look for dirty spots in your
insulation, which often indicate
holes where air leaks into and
out of your house. You can seal
the holes with low-expansion
spray foam made for this
purpose.
-
Look for dirty spots on your
ceiling paint and carpet, which
may indicate air leaks at
interior wall/ceiling joints and
wall/floor joists. These joints
can be caulked.
-
Install storm windows over
single-pane windows or replace
them with more efficient
windows, such as double-pane.
Request more information at
info@improveitusa.com.
-
When the fireplace is not in
use, keep the flue damper
tightly closed. A chimney is
designed specifically for smoke
to escape, so until you close
it, warm air escapes—24 hours a
day!
-
For new construction, reduce
exterior wall leaks by
installing house wrap, taping
the joints of exterior
sheathing, and comprehensively
caulking and sealing the
exterior walls.
-
Use foam sealant around larger
gaps around windows, baseboards,
and other places where warm air
may be leaking out.
-
Kitchen exhaust fan covers can
keep air from leaking in when
the exhaust fan is not in use.
The covers typically attach via
magnets for ease of replacement.
-
Replacing existing door
bottoms and thresholds with ones
that have pliable sealing
gaskets is a great way to
eliminate conditioned air
leaking out from underneath the
doors.
-
Fireplace flues are made from
metal, and over time repeated
heating and cooling can cause
the metal to warp or break,
creating a channel for hot or
cold air loss. Inflatable
chimney balloons are designed to
fit beneath your fireplace flue
during periods of non-use. They
are made from several layers of
durable plastic and can be
removed easily and reused
hundreds of times. Should you
forget to remove the balloon
before making a fire, the
balloon will automatically
deflate within seconds of coming
into contact with heat.
How Does the Air Escape? Air infiltrates into and out of
your home through every hole and
crack. About one-third of this
air infiltrates through openings
in your ceilings, walls, and
floors.
|
Floors, Walls, and
Ceiling |
31% |
|
Ducts |
15% |
|
Fireplace |
14% |
|
Plumbing Penetrations |
13% |
|
Doors |
11% |
|
Windows |
10% |
|
Fans and Vents |
4% |
|
Electric Outlets |
2% |
Heating and Cooling
Heating and cooling your home
uses more energy and drains more
energy dollars than any other
system in your home. Typically,
46% of your utility bill goes
for heating and cooling. What’s
more, heating and cooling
systems in the United States
together emit 150 million tons
of carbon dioxide into the
atmosphere each year, adding to
global climate change. They also
generate about 12% of the
nation’s sulfur dioxide and 4%
of the nitrogen oxides, the
chief ingredients in acid rain.
No matter what kind of heating,
ventilation, and
air-conditioning system you have
in your house, you can save
money and increase your comfort
by properly maintaining and
upgrading your equipment. But
remember, an energy-efficient
furnace alone will not have as
great an impact on your energy
bills as using the whole-house
approach. By combining proper
equipment maintenance and
upgrades with appropriate
insulation, air sealing, and
thermostat settings, you can cut
your energy use for heating and
cooling, and reduce
environmental emissions, from
20% to 50%.
Heating and Cooling Tips
-
Set your thermostat as low as
is comfortable in the winter and
as high as is comfortable in the
summer.
-
Clean or replace filters on
furnaces once a month or as
needed.
-
Clean warm-air registers,
baseboard heaters, and radiators
as needed; make sure they’re not
blocked by furniture, carpeting,
or drapes.
-
Bleed trapped air from
hot-water radiators once or
twice a season; if in doubt
about how to perform this task,
call a professional.
-
Place heat-resistant radiator
reflectors between exterior
walls and the radiators.
-
Turn off kitchen, bath, and
other exhaust fans within 20
minutes after you are done
cooking or bathing; when
replacing exhaust fans, consider
installing high-efficiency,
low-noise models.
-
During the heating season,
keep the draperies and shades on
your south-facing windows open
during the day to allow the
sunlight to enter your home and
closed at night to reduce the
chill you may feel from cold
windows.
-
During the cooling season,
keep the window coverings closed
during the day to prevent solar
gain.
$ Long-Term Savings Tips
-
Select energy-efficient
products when you buy new
heating and cooling equipment.
Your contractor should be able
to give you energy fact sheets
for different types, models, and
designs to help you compare
energy usage. For furnaces, look
for high Annual Fuel Utilization
Efficiency (AFUE) ratings. The
national minimum is 78% AFUE,
but there are models
on the market that exceed 90%
AFUE.
-
For air conditioners, look for
a high Seasonal Energy
Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The
current minimum is 13 SEER for
central air conditioners. models are 14 SEER or more.
Household Heating Systems Although several different types
of fuels are available to heat
our homes, more than half of us
use natural gas.
|
Natural Gas |
53% |
|
Electricity |
30% |
|
Other |
9% |
|
Fuel Oil |
7% |
|
No Heating System |
1% |
Air Ducts
One of the most important
systems in your home, though
it’s hidden beneath your feet
and over your head, may be
wasting a lot of your energy
dollars. Your home’s duct
system, a branching network of
tubes in the walls, floors, and
ceilings, carries the air from
your home’s furnace and central
air conditioner to each room.
Ducts are made of sheet metal,
fiberglass, or other materials.
Unfortunately, many duct systems
are poorly insulated or not
insulated properly. Ducts that
leak heated air into unheated
spaces can add hundreds of
dollars a year to your heating
and cooling bills. Insulating
ducts that are in unconditioned
spaces is usually very cost
effective. If you are buying a
new duct system, consider one
that comes with insulation
already installed.
Sealing your ducts to prevent
leaks is even more important if
the ducts are located in an
unconditioned area such as an
attic or vented crawl space. If
the supply ducts are leaking,
heated or cooled air can be
forced out of unsealed joints
and lost. In addition,
unconditioned air can be drawn
into return ducts through
unsealed joints. In the summer,
hot attic air can be drawn in,
increasing the load on the air
conditioner. In the winter, your
furnace will have to work longer
to keep your house comfortable.
Either way, your energy losses
cost you money. Although minor
duct repairs are easy to make,
ducts in unconditioned spaces
should be sealed and insulated
by qualified professionals using
appropriate sealing materials.
Here are a few simple tips to
help with minor duct repairs.
Duct Tips
-
Check your ducts for air
leaks. First, look for sections
that should be joined but have
separated and then look for
obvious holes.
-
If you use tape to seal your
ducts, avoid cloth-backed,
rubber adhesive duct tape, which
tends to fail quickly.
Researchers recommend other
products to seal ducts: mastic,
butyl tape, foil tape, or other
heat- approved tapes. Look for
tape with the Underwriters
Laboratories logo.
-
Remember that insulating ducts
in the basement will make the
basement colder. If both the
ducts and the basement walls are uninsulated, consider insulating
both. Water pipes and drains in
unconditioned spaces could
freeze and burst in the space if
the heat ducts are fully
insulated, because there would
be no heat source to prevent the
space from freezing in cold
weather. However, using an
electric heating tape wrap on
the pipes can prevent this.
Check with a professional
contractor.
-
If your basement has been
converted to a living area, hire
a professional to install both
supply and return registers in
the basement rooms.
-
Be sure a well-sealed vapor
barrier exists on the outside of
the insulation on cooling ducts
to prevent moisture buildup.
-
When doing ductwork, be sure
to get professional help.
Changes and repairs to a duct
system should always be
performed by a qualified
professional.
-
Ducts that don’t work properly
can create serious,
life-threatening carbon monoxide
(CO) problems in the home.
Install a CO monitor to alert
you to harmful CO levels if you
have a fuel-burning furnace,
stove or other appliance, or an
attached garage.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
|
Ducts—Out-of-Sight, Out-of-Mind
The unsealed ducts in your attic
and crawlspaces lose air, and
uninsulated ducts lose heat,
wasting energy and money.
Install a Carbon Monoxide
Detector
Carbon monoxide (CO) detectors
are highly recommended in homes
with fuel-burning appliances,
such as natural gas furnaces,
stoves, ovens, and water
heaters, and fuel-burning space
heaters. An alarm signals
homeowners if CO reaches
potentially dangerous levels.
|
Heat Pumps
Heat pumps are the most
efficient form of electric
heating in moderate climates,
providing three times more
heating than the equivalent
amount of energy they consume in
electricity. There are three
types of heat pumps: air-to-air,
water source, and ground source.
They collect heat from the air,
water, or ground outside your
home and concentrate it for use
inside. Heat pumps do double
duty as a central air
conditioner. They can also cool
your home by collecting the heat
inside your house and
effectively pumping it outside.
A heat pump can trim the amount
of electricity you use for
heating by as much as 30% to
40%.
Heat Pump Tips
-
Do not set back the heat
pump’s thermostat manually if it
causes the electric resistance
heating to come on. This type of
heating, which is often used as
a backup to the heat pump, is
more expensive.
-
Clean or change filters once a
month or as needed, and maintain
the system according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
Solar Heating and Cooling
Using passive solar design
techniques to heat and cool your
home can be both environmentally
friendly and cost effective.
Passive solar heating techniques
include placing larger,
insulated windows on
south-facing walls and locating
thermal mass, such as a concrete
slab floor or a heat-absorbing
wall, close to the windows. In
many cases, your heating costs
could be more than 50% lower
than the cost of heating the
same house that does not include
passive solar design.
Passive solar design can also
help reduce your cooling costs.
Passive solar cooling techniques
include carefully designed
overhangs, windows with
reflective coatings, and
reflective coatings on exterior
walls and the roof.
A passive solar house requires
careful design and site
orientation, which depend on the
local climate. So, if you are
considering passive solar design
for new construction or a major
remodeling, you should consult
an architect familiar with
passive solar techniques.
Solar Tips
Natural Gas and Oil Heating
If you plan to buy a new heating
system, ask your local utility
or state energy office for
information about the latest
technologies available to
consumers. They can advise you
about more efficient systems on
the market today. For example,
many newer models incorporate
designs for burners and heat
exchangers that result in higher
efficiencies during operation
and reduce heat loss when the
equipment is off. Consider a
sealed combustion furnace; they
are both safer and more
efficient. Check the shopping
guide in the back of this
booklet for additional
information on how to understand
heating system ratings.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
Programmable Thermostats
You can save as much as 10% a
year on your heating and cooling
bills by simply turning your
thermostat back 10% to 15% for 8
hours. You can do this
automatically by installing an
automatic setback or
programmable thermostat.
Using a programmable thermostat,
you can adjust the times you
turn on the heating or
air-conditioning according to a
preset schedule. As a result,
the equipment doesn’t operate as
much when you are asleep or when
the house, or a part of it, is
not occupied. Programmable
thermostats can store and repeat
multiple daily settings (six or
more temperature settings a day)
that you can manually override
without affecting the rest of
the daily or weekly program.
When shopping for a programmable
thermostat, be sure to look for
the label.
Air Conditioners
Buying a bigger room
air-conditioning unit won’t
necessarily make you feel more
comfortable during the hot
summer months. In fact, a room
air conditioner that’s too big
for the area it is supposed to
cool will perform less
efficiently and less effectively
than a smaller, properly sized
unit.
Sizing is equally important for
central air-conditioning
systems, which need to be sized
by professionals. If you have a
central air system in your home,
set the fan to shut off at the
same time as the cooling unit
(compressor). In other words,
don’t use the system’s central
fan to provide circulation, but
instead use circulating fans in
individual rooms.
Cooling Tips
-
Whole-house fans help cool
your home by pulling cool air
through the house and exhausting
warm air through the attic.
-
Set your thermostat as high as
comfortably possible in the
summer. The smaller the
difference between the indoor
and outdoor temperatures, the
lower your overall cooling bill
will be.
-
Avoid setting your thermostat
at a colder setting than normal
when you turn on your air
conditioner. It will not cool
your home any faster and could
result in excessive cooling and,
therefore, unnecessary expense.
-
Consider using an interior fan
in conjunction with your window
air conditioner to spread the
cooled air more effectively
through your home without
greatly increasing your power
use.
-
Avoid placing lamps or TV sets
near your air-conditioning
thermostat. The thermostat
senses heat from these
appliances, which can cause the
air conditioner to run longer
than necessary.
-
Plant trees or shrubs to shade
air conditioning units but not
to block the airflow. Place your
room air conditioner on the
north side of the house. A unit
operating in the shade uses as
much as 10% less electricity
than the same one operating in
the sun.
$ Long-Term Savings Tips
-
If your air conditioner is
old, consider purchasing a new,
energy-efficient model. You
could save up to 50% on your
utility bill for cooling. Look
for the and
EnergyGuide labels. The shopping
guide in the back of this
booklet will help you find the
right size unit for your needs.
-
Consider installing a
whole-house fan or evaporative
cooler if appropriate for your
climate. Check out
www.energysavers.gov
for more
information on efficient
cooling.
|
Cool Summer Tip
- In the summer, you can save
money by automatically turning
your air-conditioning up at
night or when you are at work.
Hot Winter Tip
- Using a programmable thermostat,
you can automatically turn down
your heat at night or when you
are not at home. |
Landscaping
Landscaping is a natural and
beautiful way to keep your home
cool in summer and reduce your
energy bills. A well-placed
tree, shrub, or vine can deliver
effective shade, act as a
windbreak, and reduce your
energy bills. Carefully
positioned trees can save up to
25% of the energy a typical
household uses for energy.
Research shows that summer
daytime air temperatures can be
3° to 6° cooler in tree-shaded
neighborhoods than in treeless
areas.
A lattice or trellis with
climbing vines, or a planter box
with trailing vines, shades the
home’s perimeter while admitting
cooling breezes to the shaded
area.
Buildings and Trees—Natural
Partners
Deciduous trees planted on the
south and west sides will help
keep your house cool in the
summer and allow sun to shine in
the windows in the winter.
Water Heating
Water heating is the third
largest energy expense in your
home. It typically accounts for
about 13%–17% of your utility
bill. There are four ways to cut
your water heating bills: use
less hot water, turn down the
thermostat on your water heater,
insulate your water heater, or
buy a new, more efficient model.
Water Heating Tips
-
Install aerating, low-flow
faucets and showerheads.
-
Repair leaky faucets promptly;
a leaky faucet wastes gallons of
water in a short period of time.
-
Lower the thermostat on your
water heater; water heaters
sometimes come from the factory
with high temperature settings,
but a setting of 120°F provides
comfortable hot water for most
uses.
-
Insulate your electric
hot-water storage tank, but be
careful not to cover the
thermostat. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendations.
-
Insulate your natural gas or
oil hot-water storage tank, but
be careful not to cover the
water heater’s top, bottom,
thermostat, or burner
compartment. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendations;
when in doubt, get professional
help.
-
Insulate the first 6 feet of
the hot and cold water pipes
connected to the water heater.
-
If
you are in the market for a new
dishwasher or clothes washer,
consider buying an efficient,
water-saving model
to reduce hot water use.
-
Install heat traps on the hot
and cold pipes at the water
heater to prevent heat loss.
Some new water heaters have
built-in heat traps.
-
Drain a quart of water from
your water tank every 3 months
to remove sediment that impedes
heat transfer and lowers the
efficiency of your heater. The
type of water tank you have
determines the steps to take, so
follow the manufacturer’s
advice.
-
Although most water heaters
last 10–15 years, it’s best to
start shopping now for a new one
if yours is more than 7 years
old. Doing some research before
your heater fails will enable
you to select one that most
appropriately meets your needs.
$ Long-Term Savings Tips
-
Buy a new energy-efficient
water heater. While it may cost
more initially than a standard
water heater, the energy savings
will continue during the
lifetime of the appliance. Look
for the and
EnergyGuide labels.
-
Look for the label
on efficient water heaters in
the following categories: high
efficiency gas non-condensing,
gas condensing, electric heat
pump, gas tankless, and solar.
-
Consider installing a drain
water waste heat recovery
system. A recent DOE study
showed energy savings of 25% to
about 30% for water heating
using such a system.
-
Consider natural gas on-demand
or tankless water heaters.
Researchers have found savings
can be up to 30% compared with a
standard natural gas storage
tank water heater.
-
Heat pump water heaters can be
very cost-effective in some
areas.
Solar Water Heaters
If you heat water with
electricity, have high electric
rates, and have an unshaded,
south-facing location (such as a
roof) on your property, consider
installing an
qualified solar water heater.
The solar units are
environmentally friendly and can
now be installed on your roof to
blend with the architecture of
your house.
More than 1.5 million homes and
businesses in the United States
have invested in solar water
heating systems, and surveys
indicate that more than 94% of
these customers consider the
systems a good investment. Solar
water heating systems are also
good for the environment. Solar
water heaters avoid the
greenhouse gas emissions
associated with electricity
production. During a 20-year
period, one solar water heater
can avoid more than 50 tons of
carbon dioxide emissions. When
shopping for a solar water
heater, look for the
label and for systems certified
by the Solar Rating and
Certification Corporation or the
Florida Solar Energy Center.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
Average Hot
Water Use |
Gallons
per Use |
|
Clothes washing |
32 |
|
Showering |
20 |
|
Bathing |
20 |
|
Automatic dishwashing |
12 |
|
Preparing food |
5 |
|
Hand dishwashing |
4 |
Source: ACEEE
Windows
Windows can be one of your
home’s most attractive features.
Windows provide views,
daylighting, ventilation, and
solar heating in the winter.
Unfortunately, they can also account
for 10% to 25% of your heating bill. During
the summer, your air conditioner
must work harder to cool hot air
from sunny windows. Install windows and use curtains and
shade to give your air conditioner
and energy bill a break.
If your
home has single-pane windows, as
many U.S. homes do, consider
replacing them with new double-pane
windows with high-performance glass
|
(e.g.,
low-e or spectrally selective).
In Ohio colder climates, select
windows that are gas filled with
low emissivity (low-e) coatings on
the glass to reduce heat loss. In
warmer climates, select windows with
spectrally selective coatings to
reduce heat gain. If you are
building a new home, you can offset
some of the cost of
|
 |
installing more efficient windows
because they allow you to buy
smaller, less expensive heating and
cooling equipment.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
-
Installing, high-performance
windows will improve your home’s
energy performance. While it may
take many years for new windows
to pay off in energy savings,
the benefits of added comfort
and improved aesthetics and
functionality may make the
investment worth it to you. Many
window technologies are
available that are worth
considering.
Efficient windows may have two
or more panes of glass,
warm-edge spacers between the
window panes, improved framing
materials, and low-e coating(s),
which are microscopically thin
coatings that help keep heat
inside during the winter and
outside during the summer.
Improveit! Home Remodeling
Windows -
Learn More
 |
SolarTech™ Glass
Thermally
balanced
SolarTech™ glass
adjusts with the
seasons.
SolarTech™ saves
energy by
transmitting
free solar
energy while
reflecting
radiant energy
to its source.
|
|
 |
SolarGold
Spacer™
The SolarGold
spacer™ is the
only 100%
non-conductive
spacer on the
market today,
and comes with a
no-fail
dual-seal
design—an
Improveit!
window is
guaranteed
against seal
failure. |
|
 |
T-Core™
Insulated Frame
The SolarTech™
window frame has
I-Beam
reinforcement
and
fusion-welded
construction.
The ultimate
frame on the
market today for
structural
integrity and
thermal
performance.
|
|
Shopping Tips for Windows
-
Look for the
label.
-
Check with local utilities to
see what rebates or other
financial incentives are
available for window
replacement.
-
High-performance windows have
at least two panes of glass and
a low-e (low emissivity)
coating.
-
Remember, the lower the
U-factor, the better the
insulation. In colder climates,
focus on finding a low U-factor.
-
Low solar heat gain
coefficients (SHGCs) reduce heat
gain. In warm climates, look for
a low SHGC.
-
In temperate climates with
both heating and cooling
seasons, select windows with
both low U-factors and low SHGCs
to maximize energy savings.
-
Look for whole-unit U-factors
and SHGCs, rather than
center-of-glass, or COG,
U-factors and SHGCs. Whole-unit
numbers more accurately reflect
the energy performance of the
entire product.
-
Have your windows installed by
trained professionals. Be sure
they’re installed according to
manufacturer’s instructions;
otherwise, your warranty may be
void.
|
Cold-Climate Windows Keep Heat
In
Double-pane windows with low-e
coating on the glass reflect
heat back into the room during
the winter months. |
Lighting
Making improvements to your
lighting is one of the fastest
ways to cut your energy bills.
An average household dedicates
10% of its energy budget to
lighting. Using new lighting
technologies can reduce lighting
energy use in your home by 50%
to 75%. Advances in lighting
controls offer further energy
savings by reducing the amount
of time lights are on but not
being used.
Indoor Lighting
|
Use linear fluorescent tubes and
energy efficient compact
fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs)
in fixtures throughout your home
to provide high-quality and
high-efficiency lighting.
Fluorescent lamps are much more
efficient than incandescent
(standard) bulbs and last about
6 to 12 times longer.
Today’s CFLs offer brightness
and color rendition that is
comparable to incandescent
bulbs. Although linear
fluorescent and CFLs cost a bit
more than incandescent bulbs
initially, over their lifetime
they are cheaper because of how
little electricity they use. CFL
lighting fixtures are now
available that are compatible
with dimmers and operate like
incandescent fixtures.
|
 |
Indoor Lighting Tips
-
Be sure to buy
qualified CFLs.
- They will save you about $30
or more in electricity costs
over each bulb’s lifetime. - Producing about 75% less heat,
they are safer to operate and
can cut home cooling costs. - Visit
www.energystar.gov to
find the right light bulbs for
your fixtures. They are
available in sizes and shapes to
fit in almost any fixture. - They provide the greatest
savings in fixtures that are on
for a long time each day. The
best fixtures to use qualified
CFLs in are usually found in
your family and living rooms,
kitchen, dining room, bedrooms,
and outdoors.
-
Consider purchasing qualified fixtures. They
are available in many styles
including table, desk and floor
lamps — and hard-wired options
for front porches, dining rooms,
bathroom vanity fixtures, and
more.
-
qualified fixtures
distribute light more
efficiently and evenly than
standard fixtures and they
deliver convenient features such
as dimming on some indoor
models.
-
Controls such as timers and
photo cells save electricity by
turning lights off when not in
use. Dimmers save electricity
when used to lower light levels.
Be sure to select products that
are compatible with CFL bulbs;
not all products work with CFLs.
-
When remodeling, look for
recessed downlights, or “cans”,
that are rated for contact with
insulation (IC rated).
-
Take advantage of daylight by
using light-colored, loose-weave
curtains on your windows to
allow daylight to penetrate the
room while preserving privacy.
Also, decorate with lighter
colors that reflect daylight.
-
If you have torchiere fixtures
with halogen lamps, consider
replacing them with compact
fluorescent torchieres. Compact
fluorescent torchieres use 60%
to 80% less energy and do not
get as hot as halogen torchieres.
Compact Fluorescent Bulbs— A
Bright Idea!
qualified lighting
provides bright, warm light and
uses about 75% less energy than
standard lighting, produces 75%
less heat, and lasts up to 10
times longer.
Outdoor Lighting
Many homeowners use outdoor
lighting for decoration and
security. When shopping for
outdoor lights, you will find a
variety of products, from
low-voltage pathway lighting to
motion-detector floodlights.
Light emitting diodes, or LEDs,
thrive in outdoor environments
because of their durability and
performance in cold weather.
Look for LED
products such as pathway lights,
step lights, and porch lights
for outdoor use.
Outdoor Lighting Tips
-
Because outdoor lights are
usually left on a long time,
using CFLs in these fixtures
will save a lot of energy. Most
bare spiral CFLs can be used in
enclosed fixtures that protect
them from the weather.
-
CFLs are also available as
flood lights. These models have
been tested to withstand the
rain and snow so they can be
used in exposed fixtures. Most
though, cannot be used with
motion detectors.
-
Look for qualified
fixtures that are designed for
outdoor use and come with
features like automatic daylight
shut-off and motion sensors.
-
Lighting qualified
CFLs are available in sizes and
shapes to fit in almost any
fixture.
|
LED—A New Kind of Light
Light emitting diodes, or LEDs,
offer better light quality than
incandescent bulbs, last 25
times as long, and use even less
energy than CFLs. Look for
qualified LED
products at home improvement
centers and lighting showrooms.
|
Appliances
Appliances account for about 17%
of your household’s energy
consumption, with refrigerators,
clothes washers, and clothes
dryers at the top of the
consumption list.
When you’re shopping for
appliances, think of two price
tags. The first one covers the
purchase price—think of it as a
down payment. The second price
tag is the cost of operating the
appliance during its lifetime.
You’ll be paying on that second
price tag every month with your
utility bill for the next 10 to
20 years, depending on the
appliance. Refrigerators last an
average of 14 years; clothes
washers about 11 years;
dishwashers about 10 years; and
room air conditioners last 9
years.
When you do shop for a new
appliance, look for the label. products
usually exceed minimum federal
standards by a substantial
amount.
To help you figure out whether
an appliance is energy
efficient, the federal
government requires most
appliances to display the bright
yellow and black EnergyGuide
label. Although these labels
will not tell you which
appliance is the most efficient,
they will tell you the annual
energy consumption and operating
cost for each appliance so you
can compare them yourself. The
American Council for an
Energy-Efficient Economy lists
the energy performance of
top-rated energy- saving
appliances on its web site:
www.aceee.org.
Dishwashers
Most of the energy used by a
dishwasher is for water heating.
The EnergyGuide label estimates
how much power is needed per
year to run the appliance and to
heat the water based on the
yearly cost of natural gas and
electric water heating.
What’s the Real Cost?
Every appliance has two price
tags—the purchase price and the
operating cost. Consider both
when buying a new appliance.
Dishwasher Tips
-
Check the manual that came
with your dishwasher for the
manufacturer’s recommendations
on water temperature; many have
internal heating elements that
allow you to set the water
heater in your home to a lower
temperature (120°F).
-
Scrape, don’t rinse, off large
food pieces and bones. Soaking
or prewashing is generally only
recommended in cases of
burned-on or dried-on food.
-
Be
sure your dishwasher is full,
but not overloaded, when you run
the dishwasher.
-
Avoid using the “rinse hold”
on your machine for just a few
soiled dishes. It uses 3 to 7
gallons of hot water each time
you use it.
-
Let your dishes air dry; if
you don’t have an automatic
air-dry switch, turn off the
control knob after the final
rinse and prop the door open
slightly so the dishes will dry
faster.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
Refrigerators
The EnergyGuide label on new
refrigerators tells you how much
electricity in kilowatt-hours
(kWh) a particular model uses in
one year. The smaller the
number, the less energy the
refrigerator uses and the less
it will cost you to operate. In
addition to the EnergyGuide
label, don’t forget to look for
the label. A new
refrigerator with an
label uses at least 20% less
energy than required by current
federal standards and 40% less
energy than the conventional
models sold in 2001.
|
What’s a kilowatt?
When you use electricity to cook
a pot of rice for 1 hour, you
use 1000 watt-hours of
electricity! One thousand
watt-hours equals 1
kilowatt-hour, or 1 kWh. Your
utility bill usually shows what
you are charged for the
kilowatt-hours you use. The
average residential rate is 9.4
cents per kWh. A typical U.S.
household consumes about 11,000
kWh per year, costing an average
of $1,034 annually.
|
Refrigerator/Freezer Energy Tips
-
Look for a refrigerator with
automatic moisture control.
Models with this feature have
been engineered to prevent
moisture accumulation on the
cabinet exterior without the
addition of a heater. This is
not the same thing as an
“anti-sweat” heater. Models with
an anti-sweat heater will
consume 5% to 10% more energy
than models without this
feature.
-
Don’t keep your refrigerator
or freezer too cold. Recommended
temperatures are 37° to 40°F for
the fresh food compartment of
the refrigerator and 5°F for the
freezer section. If you have a
separate freezer for long-term
storage, it should be kept at
0°F.
-
To check refrigerator
temperature, place an appliance
thermometer in a glass of water
in the center of the
refrigerator. Read it after 24
hours. To check the freezer
temperature, place a thermometer
between frozen packages. Read it
after 24 hours.
-
Regularly defrost
manual-defrost refrigerators and
freezers; frost buildup
decreases the energy efficiency
of the unit. Don’t allow frost
to build up more than
one-quarter of an inch.
-
Make sure your refrigerator
door seals are airtight. Test
them by closing the door over a
piece of paper or a dollar bill
so it is half in and half out of
the refrigerator. If you can
pull the paper or bill out
easily, the latch may need
adjustment, the seal may need
replacing, or you might consider
buying a new unit.
-
Cover liquids and wrap foods
stored in the refrigerator.
Uncovered foods release moisture
and make the compressor work
harder.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
-
Look for the label
when buying a new refrigerator.
Select a new refrigerator that
is the right size for your
household. Top freezer models
are more energy efficient than
side-by-side models. Features
like icemakers and water
dispensers, while convenient,
will increase energy use.
|
How to Read the EnergyGuide
Label
The EnergyGuide label gives you
two important pieces of
information you can use to
compare different brands and
models when shopping for a new
refrigerator:
|
Other Energy-Saving Kitchen Tips
-
Be sure to place the faucet
lever on the kitchen sink in the
cold position when using small
amounts of water; placing the
lever in the hot position uses
energy to heat the water even
though it may never reach the
faucet.
-
If you need to purchase a
natural gas oven or range, look
for one with an automatic,
electric ignition system. An
electric ignition saves natural
gas because a pilot light is not
burning continuously.
-
In natural gas appliances,
look for blue flames; yellow
flames indicate the gas is
burning inefficiently and an
adjustment may be needed.
Consult the manufacturer or your
local utility.
-
Keep range-top burners and
reflectors clean; they will
reflect the heat better, and you
will save energy.
-
Use a covered kettle or pan to
boil water; it’s faster and it
uses less energy.
-
Match the size of the pan to
the heating element.
-
Use small electric pans or
toaster ovens for small meals
rather than your large stove or
oven. A toaster oven uses a
third to half as much energy as
a full-sized oven.
-
Use pressure cookers and
microwave ovens whenever it is
convenient to do so. They will
save energy by significantly
reducing cooking time.
|
Refrigerators Are
Cool!
Refrigerators with the freezer
on the top are more efficient
than those with freezers on the
side. |
Laundry
About 90% of the energy used for
washing clothes in a
conventional top-load washer is
for heating the water. There are
two ways to reduce the amount of
energy used for washing
clothes—use less water and use
cooler water. Unless you’re
dealing with oily stains, the
warm or cold water setting on
your machine will generally do a
good job of cleaning your
clothes. Switching your
temperature setting from hot to
warm can cut a load’s energy use
in half.
Laundry Tips
-
Wash your clothes in cold
water using cold-water
detergents whenever possible.
-
Wash and dry full loads. If
you are washing a small load,
use the appropriate water-level
setting.
-
Dry towels and heavier cottons
in a separate load from
lighter-weight clothes.
-
Don’t over-dry your clothes.
If your machine has a moisture
sensor, use it.
-
Clean the lint filter in the
dryer after every load to
improve air circulation.
-
Use the cool-down cycle to
allow the clothes to finish
drying with the residual heat in
the dryer.
-
Periodically inspect your
dryer vent to ensure it is not
blocked. This will save energy
and may prevent a fire.
Manufacturers recommend using
rigid venting material, not
plastic vents that may collapse
and cause blockages.
-
Consider air-drying clothes on
clothes lines or drying racks.
Air-drying is recommended by
clothing manufacturers for some
fabrics.
|
Save Energy and More with
 |
clothes washers use
50% less energy to wash clothes
than standard washing machines. |
|
$ Long-Term Savings Tips
-
Look for the and
EnergyGuide labels.
clothes washers clean clothes
using 50% less energy than
standard washers. Most
full-sized washers
use 15 gallons of water per
load, compared to the 32.5
gallons used by a new standard
machine. models also
spin the clothes better,
resulting in less drying time.
-
When shopping for a new
clothes dryer, look for one with
a moisture sensor that
automatically shuts off the
machine when your clothes are
dry. Not only will this save
energy, it will save the wear
and tear on your clothes caused
by over-drying.
-
does not label
clothes dryers because most of
them use similar amounts of
energy, which means there is
little difference in energy use
between models.
Major Appliance Shopping Guide
This easy-to-read guide may help
you understand how appliances
are rated for efficiency, what
the ratings mean, and what to
look for while shopping for new
appliances.
|
Appliances |
Rating |
Special Considerations |
|
Natural Gas and Oil Systems |
Look for the FTC (Federal Trade
Commission) EnergyGuide label
with an AFUE (Annual Fuel
Utilization Efficiency) rating
for natural gas- and oil-fired
furnaces and boilers. The AFUE
measures the seasonal or annual
efficiency. furnaces
have a 90 AFUE or higher. |
Bigger is not always better! Too
large a system costs more and
operates inefficiently. Have a
professional assess your needs
and recommend the type and size
of system you should purchase. |
|
Air-Source Heat Pumps |
Look for the EnergyGuide label
that lists the SEER (Seasonal
Energy Efficiency Ratio) and
HSPF (Heating Seasonal
Performance Factor) for heat
pumps. The SEER measures the
energy efficiency during the
cooling season and HSPF measures
the efficiency during the
heating season. The
minimum efficiency level is 13
SEER or higher. |
If you live in a cool climate,
look for a heat pump with a high
HSPF. heat pumps are
about 20% more efficient than
standard models. Contact a
professional for advice on
purchasing a heat pump. |
|
Central Air Conditioners |
Look for the EnergyGuide label
with a SEER for central air
conditioners. The
minimum efficiency level is 13
SEER. |
Air conditioners that bear
the label may be
25% more efficient than
standard models. Contact a
professional for advice on
sizing a central air system. |
|
Room
Air Conditioners |
Look for the
EnergyGuide label with an EER
(Energy Efficiency Ratio) for
room air conditioners. The
higher the EER, the more
efficient the unit is. units are among the most
energy-efficient products. |
What size to buy?
|
Sq.
feet
100-150
150-250
250-350
350-450
400-450
450-550
550-700
700-1,000 |
Btu/hour
5,000 6,000
7,000 9,000
10,000
12,000
14,000
18,000 |
|
Two major factors should guide
your purchase: correct size and
energy efficiency. If the room
is very sunny, increase capacity
by 10%. If the unit is for a
kitchen, increase the capacity
by 4,000 Btu/Hr |
|
|
Programmable Thermostats |
For minimum
efficiency, thermostats should
have at least two programs, four
temperature settings each, a
hold feature that allows users
to temporarily override
settings, and the ability to
maintain room temperature within
2ºF of desired temperature. |
Look for a the label
and a thermostat that allows you
to easily use two separate
programs, one that can be
programmed to reach the desired
temperature at a specific time,
and a hold feature that
temporarily overrides the
setting without deleting the
preset programs. |
|
Water Heaters |
Look for the EnergyGuide label
that tells how much energy the
water heater uses in one year.
Also, look for the FHR (first
hour rating) of the water
heater, which measures the
maximum hot water the heater
will deliver in the first hour
of use. labeled
water heaters available January
2009. |
If you typically need a lot of
hot water at once, the FHR will
be important to you. Sizing is
important—call your local
utility for advice. |
|
Windows |
Look for the NFRC (National
Fenestration Rating Council)
label that provides U-values and
SHGC (solar heat gain
coefficient) values. The lower
the U-value, the better the
insulation. |
Look at the Climate Region Map
on the label to be
sure that the window, door, or
skylight you have selected is
appropriate for where you live. |
|
Refrigerators and Freezers |
Look for the EnergyGuide label
that tells how much electricity,
in kWh, the refrigerator will
use in one year. The smaller the
number, the less energy it uses.
refrigerators use at
least 20% less energy than
required by federal standards. |
Look for energy-efficient
refrigerators and freezers.
Refrigerators with freezers on
top are more efficient than
those with freezers on the side.
Also look for heavy door hinges
that create a good door seal. |
|
Dishwashers |
Look for the EnergyGuide label
that tells how much electricity,
in kWh, the dishwasher will use
in one year. The smaller the
number, the less energy it uses.
dishwashers use at
least 41% less energy than
required by federal standards. |
Look for features that will
reduce water use, such as
booster heaters and smart
controls. Ask how many gallons
of water the dishwasher uses
during different cycles.
Dishwashers that use the least
amount of water will cost the
least to operate. |
|
Clothes Washers |
Look for the EnergyGuide label
that tells how much electricity,
in kWh, the clothes washer will
use in one year. The smaller the
number, the less energy is uses.
clothes washers use
less than 50% of the energy used
by standard washers. |
Look for the following design
features that help clothes
washers cut water usage: water
level controls, “suds-saver”
features, spin cycle
adjustments, and large capacity.
For double the efficiency, buy
an unit. |
Home Office and Home Electronics
In the U.S., nearly 4.2 million
people worked from home in 2000,
up from 3.4 million in 1990.
Working from home saves energy
and time by cutting out the
commute, but it may increase
your home energy bills a lot
unless you use energy-saving
office equipment.
labeled office
equipment is widely available:
it provides users with dramatic
savings, as much as 90% savings
for some products. Overall,
labeled office
products use about half the
electricity of standard
equipment. Along with saving
energy directly, this equipment
can reduce air conditioning
loads, noise from fans and
transformers, and
electromagnetic field emissions
from monitors.
Home Office Tips
-
Selecting energy-efficient
office equipment—personal
computers (PCs), monitors,
copiers, printers, and fax
machines—and turning off Home
Office and Home Electronics I
machines when they are not in
use can result in enormous
energy savings.
-
An labeled
computer uses 70% less
electricity than computers
without this designation. If
left inactive,
labeled desktop computers enter
a sleep mode and use 4 watts or
less. Spending a large portion
of time in low-power mode not
only saves energy, but helps
equipment run cooler and last
longer.
-
To maximize savings with a
laptop, put the AC adapter on a
power strip that can be turned
off (or will turn off
automatically); the transformer
in the AC adapter draws power
continuously, even when the
laptop is not plugged into the
adapter.
-
Common misconceptions
sometimes account for the
failure to turn off equipment.
Many people believe that
equipment lasts longer if it is
never turned off. This incorrect
perception carries over from the
days of older mainframe
computers.
-
labeled computers
and monitors save energy only
when the power management
features are activated, so make
sure power management is
activated on your computer.
-
There is a common
misconception that screen savers
reduce energy use by monitors;
they do not. Automatic switching
to sleep mode or manually
turning monitors off is always
the better energy-saving
strategy.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
|
Shop for Products
for Offices
|
Keep Your Home Office Efficient
with
Home offices are increasingly
popular. Be sure to use office equipment to save
electricity.
Home Electronics Tips
-
Look for energy-saving labeled home electronics.
-
Many appliances continue to
draw a small amount of power
when they are switched off.
These “phantom” loads occur in
most appliances that use
electricity, such as VCRs,
televisions, stereos, computers,
and kitchen appliances. These
phantom loads can be avoided by
unplugging the appliance or
using a power strip and using
the switch on the power strip to
cut all power to the appliance.
-
Unplug battery chargers when
the batteries are fully charged
or the chargers are not in use.
-
Studies have shown that using
rechargeable batteries for
products like cordless phones
and PDAs is more cost effective
than throwaway batteries. If you
must use throaways, check with
your trash removal company about
safe disposal options.
|
Shop for Home
Electronics
|
Driving and Car Maintenance
Transportation accounts for 67%
of U.S. oil use—mainly in the
form of gasoline. Luckily, there
are plenty of ways to improve
gas mileage.
Driving Tips
-
Idling gets you 0 miles per
gallon. The best way to warm up
a vehicle is to drive it. No
more than 30 seconds of idling
on winter days is needed.
Anything more simply wastes fuel
and increases emissions.
-
Aggressive driving (speeding,
rapid acceleration, and hard
braking) wastes gas. It can
lower your highway gas mileage
33% and city mileage 5%.
-
Avoid high speeds. Above 60
mph, gas mileage drops rapidly.
-
Clear out your car; extra
weight decreases gas mileage by
1% to 2% for every 100 pounds.
-
Reduce drag by placing items
inside the car or trunk rather
than on roof racks. A roof rack
or carrier provides additional
cargo space and may allow you to
buy a smaller car. However, a
loaded roof rack can decrease
your fuel economy by 5% or more.
-
Check into telecommuting,
carpooling and public transit to
cut mileage and car maintenance
costs.
Car Maintenance Tips
-
Use the grade of motor oil
recommended by your car’s
manufacturer. Using a different
motor oil can lower your
gasoline mileage by 1% to 2%.
-
Keep tires properly inflated
and aligned to improve your
gasoline mileage by around 3.3%.
-
Get regular engine tune-ups
and car maintenance checks to
avoid fuel economy problems due
to worn spark plugs, dragging
brakes, low transmission fluid,
or transmission problems.
-
Replace clogged air filters to
improve gas mileage by as much
as 10% and protect your engine.
-
Combine errands into one trip.
Several short trips, each one
taken from a cold start, can use
twice as much fuel as one trip
covering the same distance when
the engine is warm.
$ Long-Term Savings Tip
-
Consider buying a highly
fuel-efficient vehicle. A fuel-
efficient vehicle, a hybrid
vehicle, or an alternative fuel
vehicle could save you a lot at
the gas pump and help the
environment. See the Fuel
Economy Guide (www.fueleconomy.gov)
for more on buying a new
fuel-efficient car or truck.
Renewable Energy
You have many options for using
renewable energy at home—from
solar-powered outdoor lights to
buying renewable energy from
your utility to even producing
solar electricity at home with
photovoltaic (PV) cells.
Renewable Energy Tips
-
A new home provides the best
opportunity for designing and
orienting the home to take
advantage of the sun’s rays. A
well-oriented home admits
low-angle winter sun to reduce
heating bills and rejects
overhead summer sun to reduce
cooling bills. See the Heating
and Cooling section for more
about using passive solar energy
in your home.
-
Many U.S. consumers buy
electricity made from renewable
energy sources like the sun,
wind, water, plants, and Earth’s
internal heat. This power is
sometimes called “green power.”
Buying green power from the
utility is one of the easiest
ways to use renewable energy
without having to invest in
equipment or take on extra
maintenance.
-
Another use of solar power is
for heating water. Solar water
heating is covered in the Water
Heating section on page 16. If
you have a swimming pool or hot
tub, you can use solar power to
cut pool heating costs. Most
solar pool heating systems are
cost competitive with
conventional systems. And solar
pool systems have very low
operating costs. It’s actually
the most cost-effective use of
solar energy.
$ Long-Term Savings Tips
If you’ve made your home as
energy efficient as possible,
and you have very high
electricity bills Renewable
Energy Y and a good solar
resource, you might want to
consider generating your own
electricity using PV cells. New
products are available that
integrate PV cells with the
roof, making them much less
visible than older systems.
If the following conditions
apply, you might want to do more
research to see if investing in
PV is right for you:
-
Your site has adequate solar
resources.
-
A grid connection is not
available in your area or can be
made only through an expensive
power line extension.
-
You are willing to pay more up
front to reduce the
environmental impact of your
electricity use.
-
Your power provider will
connect your system to the
electricity grid and buy any
excess power you produce.
-
Your state, city, or utility
offers rebates, tax credits, or
other incentives. Visit
the Ohio section to find out
about financial incentives in
your area.
References
American Council for an
Energy-Efficient Economy
Census Bureau Press Release,
Information on Home Workers
October 20, 2004. CB04-183.
DOE Building America
DOE Building Technologies
Program
DOE Building Technologies
Program, 2007 Buildings Energy
Databook
DOE Consumer Guide to Energy
Efficiency and Renewable Energy
DOE/EPA Fuel Economy Guide
DOE Energy Information
Administration Residential
Energy Consumption Survey 2005
ENERGY SAVERS
®
Home Energy Magazine
Rocky Mountain Institute Home
Energy Briefs
Wilson, Alex; Thorne, Jennifer;
Morrill, John. Consumer Guide to
Home Energy Savings, 8th
Edition. 2003. Washington, D.C.:
ACEEE
NOTICE: This
information was
prepared in part by an agency of the
United States government.
Neither the United States
government nor any agency
thereof, nor any of their
employees, makes any warranty,
express or implied, or assumes
any legal liability or
responsibility for the accuracy,
completeness, or usefulness of
any information, apparatus,
product, or process disclosed,
or represents that its use would
not infringe privately owned
rights. Reference herein to any
specific commercial product,
process, or service by trade
name, trademark, manufacturer,
or otherwise does not
necessarily constitute or imply
its endorsement, recommendation,
or favoring by the United States
government or any agency
thereof. The views and opinions
of authors expressed herein do
not necessarily state or reflect
those of the United States
government or any agency
thereof.
Produced for the U.S. Department
of Energy, Office of Energy
Efficiency and Renewable Energy
1000 Independence Avenue, SW,
Washington, DC 20585 by the
National Renewable Energy
Laboratory, a DOE National
Laboratory
|
 |
Click on
the link at left to
download the Energy
Savers Booklet, tips on
Savings Energy & Money
at Home. This
printable document
contains more
information on other
states and includes
additional graphics. |
Request more information at
info@improveitusa.com.
A Strong Energy Portfolio for a
Strong America
Energy efficiency and clean,
renewable energy will mean a
stronger economy, a cleaner
environment, and greater energy
independence for America.
Working with a wide array of
state, community, industry, and
university partners, the U.S.
Department of Energy’s Office of
Energy Efficiency and Renewable
Energy invests in a diverse
portfolio of energy
technologies. |